Belgrade

An accidental visit to a sleek new boutique hotel in the old part of town.

By Leslie Long

We found ourselves in the Serbian capitol of Belgrade due to an airline connection on our way to Montenegro. Not content to simply change planes, I planned a few days in this city that I mostly knew as home to a couple world-class tennis players. The airport had a feeling of somewhat modern disrepair with small, cramped gift shops, cafes emulating Italian ones, piles of unused items shoved in corners and something I’d never seen before: energy-efficient escalators that only run when someone alights.

We’d asked the airport tourism desk the typical cost of a taxi into the old part of town where we’d reserved a hotel. Upon reaching the curb, a mob of drivers offered to take us at twice the price. When we offered the suggested price, a lone wolf stepped forward and happily led us to his car for the lower fare.

Passing an aerospace museum virtually on the airport grounds, we were soon speeding down a highway into the city center. Blocks of communist era apartments lined the roads with terraces full of stuff that wouldn’t fit inside. As we got off the bigger road and drove through the new part of the city, occasional modern multi-use complexes in bright primary colors with bold architectural designs showed signs of new vitality.

Little by little, the buildings started to take on a patina and soon our driver was wending his way through the narrow, maze-like streets of Belgrade’s old town. He located our street, Marsala Birjuzova, dropping us in front of Townhouse 27, a boutique hotel we’d chosen because it had nothing but accolades on Trip Advisor. One step inside and I knew the reports had sent me in the right direction.

Sometimes I marvel at how people can put together something as sleek, modern, well designed and well run in a neighborhood that doesn’t seem to have the resources to support it. But the owners of Townhouse 27 have done a spectacular job creating a comfortable, stylish, modern hotel here. The stylish lobby led to a sumptuous café where the complimentary breakfasts were expertly served, amid a huge variety of choices. There was a small room with a computer for guest use and our room was exceedingly comfortable and just beautiful.

After a jet-lag nap and a quick shower in the bath with fixtures far more energy efficient and beautiful than any I’ve seen in the US, we stepped outside for a look around. The weather was warm and the copies outdoor cafes were full of people, many who happened to be gorgeous with the look of undiscovered runway models who would dazzle with a little bit of polish. We settled into a spot with a big bar, comfy couches and a great menu of snacks just a block from the hotel. Under huge trees, we ordered some local beer and a platter of cured meats and cheeses that was incredibly artful, large and cheap.

We moved on to Knez Mihailova Street, a seemingly endless pedestrian shopping street with some upscale art galleries, everyday clothing stores, more outdoor cafes and ice cream stands. This street was full of people all day and late into the night when we were walking back from dinner with friends in the bohemian quarter, Skadarlija. This neighborhood became famous at the end of the 19^th century for its cafes filled with artists, writers, actors and journalists who once lived in the area. Today, the steep cobblestone street is home to lots of restaurants where gypsy music comes with dinner and there’s a lot going on well into the night.

Belgrade is famous for nightlife, which could have something to do with the small quarters many find themselves living in. Here it is common for adult children to remain in their parent’s apartments until they get married since it is so expensive to live in their own. In search of peers and privacy, they fill the many clubs that stay open till dawn, many on boats along the rivers Sava and Danube.

With its beautiful, but somewhat crumbling beauty, the old part of Belgrade reminded me a bit of Havana. While not as extreme, there was a haunting beauty to this old neighborhood, and it felt embraced by its residents with the cafes and restaurants continually full of people talking, drinking, eating and watching.

I loved the fact that this seemed to be a city completely without western tourists. Perhaps it’s a mecca for Serbians, but with a language and alphabet completely unknown to me, I was happily free of the usual touchstones. An accidental stopover became one of the best few days of our trip.

Riviera Maya

There’s a Riviera Maya for lots of different tastes: luxe, eco-conscious, casual or boho.

By Leslie Long

The first time I flew from NY to Cancun, I was surprised that it was so close. In less than four hours, I’d left snowy NYC and was waiting in passport control stripped down to a tank top, having shed my layers as soon as I felt the sun. Thanks to tailwinds, flying back takes an incredibly short three hours, making Riviera Maya a great option for a long weekend from the East Coast. Not much father than Florida and closer than the West Indies, there’s a lot to be discovered along this 75 mile stretch of Caribbean beaches, thick green jungle, underground rivers and lively towns like Playa del Carmen.

After getting through customs at the Cancun Airport, it’s a straight shot down a well-paved and well-marked highway to the resorts along the Riviera Maya. While less built up and more eco-conscious than the high rises of Cancun, the region does have its share of faceless all-inclusives. Yet, beyond those huge resorts, there are many pleasures to be found.

Luxurious and dreamy: Maroma

Exotic Maroma fits right in with rich hippie havens such as Marrakech and Ibiza. It’s got that spiritual yet elegant hideaway feel that’s wildly romantic and extremely seductive. The design of this luxe retreat was inspired by the ancient jungles of the Yucatan where dense forest meets open coast. Amid a 25-acre beachfront in a 500-acre coconut plantation, it couldn’t be more tropical. The white sand beach is sublime.

Custom built by local craftsmen, Maroma feels like a traditional Mexican hacienda. Local timber and hand-woven fabrics create a décor that is indulgent, yet very Mexican in feel. With just 65 rooms, it’s intimate.

The hotel’s spectacular Kinan Spa is pure indulgence, yet the time-honored regimens come through. The welcoming staff puts your body and mind at ease. My masseuse whispered in my ear every time she told me to move or readjust. The Lomi Lomi treatment I received was truly a wonder. Said to be one of the oldest and deepest forms of restorative bodywork, my masseuse used her entire body to perform her magic. Before the treatment, I was left in a small room with a few trays of silky smooth muds to slather all over.  With a sauna, steam room, hot shower and cold pool, it was a sensual feast.

As for feasts, Maroma has an array of dining options. El Sol has ocean views and serves dinner in an elegant atmosphere. El Restaurante is the spot for all-day dining. And Cilantro offers outdoor dining by the pool or on the beach. Freddy’s Tequila and Ceviche Bar on the beach has over 100 tequilas and six exotic ceviches daily prepared at tableside.

At night, Maroma is lit with a thousand candles, making one of the most beautiful spots I’ve seen even more beautiful.

Eco-conscious and close to nature: Hacienda Tres Rios

While I’m not a fan of all-inclusives, Hacienda Tres Rios has many qualities that set it apart. First of all, it’s built deep inside a 326-acre nature park with its own beautiful rivers. That means adventure seekers don’t have to travel far for kayaking, snorkeling or swimming in the pristine waters of a cenote. It’s also a huge nature preserve with miles of trails and acres of beautiful jungle flora and fauna. Plus, they have innovative programs like jaguar tours (sometimes said to be seen on the premises) and guided, blindfolded walks designed to stimulate and wake up the senses.

The entire resort was built to green standards and it’s truly state of the art. While everything feels comfortable and luxurious, behind the scenes it’s as efficient and environmentally friendly as it can be. Once I learned about how many ways they save energy — from the innovative air conditioning system to the way they serve the food — I just felt good about being there.

With a beautiful beach, friendly staff, generously poured drinks and a fun poolside restaurant, Hacienda Tres Rios is a big resort with a lot of heart and soul.

Fitness-focused and casual: Las Villas Akumal

If you’re traveling with a group of friends or have some kids along, Las Villas Akumal is a casual place right on the beach with a friendly, relaxed feel. And if you like to see some of the local area while traveling, this is a good option because the small town of Akumal is about a fifteen-minute walk down the beach. Even without a car, you’ll be able to enjoy some diverse experiences. The walk is really pretty, passing houses, hotels and restaurants. Ultimately you reach the town and the lively beach full of families from the area. Once in town, there are a couple of casual restaurants with great food, plus some nice shopping options.

Back at Las Villas Akumal, you can book suites of various sizes that are owned by others but available for rent. Each one is different and the one I stayed in was perfectly nice. All have kitchens, living room and feel like the apartments they actually are. Outside is a beach that’s also a nesting site for sea turtles, a small pool, a spa where massages can be booked and a rooftop restaurant.

Want to come back from vacation more fit than when you left? Sign up for one of Tiger Athletics’ stints where Las Villas Akumal is your base camp. The super fit and truly motivating trainers Chris and Stacie Clark run this business and “the world,” they say, “ is our gym.” The Clarks own a place at the hotel and take over the rest with fitness groups several times a year. With beach runs, kayaks at the ready, water weight workouts that are nothing like you’ve ever seen before and more, it’s a great way to have some fun and up your fitness level, too.

Boho and uninhibited: Cabanas Copal

Cabanas Copal in Tulum is a series of rustic and romantic beach huts dotted around a rocky, wooded coast along an absolutely sublime stretch of sandy beach. Some are pretty spare, but all have a cool, back-to-nature vibe.

Cabanas Copal has a counter culture feel and sometimes hosts groups that are studying spiritual things or doing yoga or meditation. There’s a bar and restaurant that’s nice, but unfortunately not along the water. Open-air spa treatment rooms overlook the sea.

Many beachgoers here are nude, but some are also in suits. Anything goes at Cabanas Copal and that’s the beauty of it all. Of all the beaches I saw in this area, this was the best. And if so much hedonism becomes all too much, culture isn’t far. The Mayan ruins of Tulum are just three miles down the road.

Alabama Barbecue:

One older, One newer. Both incredible.

By Leslie Long

Older: Dreamland Barbecue in Tuscaloosa.

It’s easy to see why they call this place Dreamland. After feasting on a pile of pork ribs and blissful baked beams, the genesis was obvious. This mini-conglomerate now has eight restaurants in Alabama and Georgia, but the original shack still stands in Tuscaloosa where it looks much as it did when it opened in 1958. John “Big Daddy” Bishop was the original owner and he opened the place so he and his friends would have a place to get together. Bishop’s daughter stopped to chat with us and told us her father kept his day job for years as the business grew under the watchful eye of his wife. At first, they served just pork ribs and Sunbeam white bread — no sides at all. Bit by bit, they added a few specialties to the menu like baked beans, cole slaw and a yummy, gooey banana pudding we were all passing around as we tried to guess the ingredients. A selection of domestic and imported beers, plus the requisite sweet and unsweetened iced tea complete the menu here.

The oxblood exterior looks recently painted, but other than that, the shack holds on to the original feed. The small, dimly lit dining room is filled with memorabilia (including Big Daddy’s favorite easy chair) with a bar on the left and a few rows of tables and booths where enthusiastic diners occupied every available spot on the day we arrived for lunch. The adjacent outdoor porch was opened up to accommodate our group — and it’s the only addition to the original Dreamland building.

The seven additional Dreamland restaurants serve a wider menu including more sides, chicken and pulled pork. There’s also a mail-order business on the website where Dreamland’s specialties can be ordered.

It’s nice the way they’ve kept the original Tuscaloosa location looking and tasting the same as it has always been. Thanks to Dreamland, when it comes to authentic barbecue the way it’s always been, you can go home again.

Newer: Saw’s Barbecue in Homewood

Saw’s BBQ is a hole in the wall on a nice downtown street in Homewood, just south of downtown Birmingham.

My friends and I showed up a little after noon on a weekday and the place was already nearly full. We put in our order at the counter and after a bit of a wait, we wrangled a table up front. While waiting, we talked to some of the regulars about the owner, Mike Wilson who was formerly a chef at Cooking Light. With this place, Wilson obviously took a completely different tack. Saw’s is a paean for Wilson’s high school nickname of Sorry Ass Wilson.  There’s nothing sorry about Saw’s. The food actually did have lightness about it, although it was barbecue at its best. I ordered the smoked chicken sandwich with white barbecue sauce and it was tender and delicious. I’d resisted the white sauce, but the woman at the counter insisted. It was kind of right and light at the same time and perfect with the white meat of the chicken. My friends were losing themselves in the house specialty, pulled pork, and seemed equally at peace with their lunch. Saw’s offers just a few sides. The cole slaw was tangy and finely chopped, giving it a unique look and texture.

While I’m writing about barbecue, I have to include something that kept popping up along the Alabama barbecue trail: gigantic stuffed baked potatoes. At Saw’s, they’re called Stuffed Taters and I’d never seen spuds so enormous. Filled with everything from sour cream and cheddar cheese to chile and barbecued pork, they looked good, if daunting.

Yes, the barbecue was good, but hey, I’m a girl. On the way into Saw’s, I eyed a cupcake bakery a few doors down called Dreamcakes. This pretty place is kind of dreamy with an array of cupcakes that leave New York’s unjustifiably successful Magnolia Bakery in the dust. The last Red Velvet was bought out from under me. After seeing my sadness, but the person behind the counter went back and iced a few more within minutes. Dreamcake’s was one of the best versions of this classic cake I’ve ever had with moist cake and silky icing that was just sweet enough to satisfy. Dreamland has an ever-changing array of unique flavors such as Wedding Cake made with white velvet cake, almond buttercream icing and topped with sparkling pearlized sugar and Caramel Sea Salt Mocha. Back in New York, I’m dreaming of them now.

Vigilius Mountain Resort

by Tyler Durden

Vigilius Mountain Resort in South Tyrol announces Mauro Buffo as its new chef at Restaurant 1500. Buffo was born in Verona and has already cooked in several renowned restaurants such as El Bulli in Girona and Falai Restaurant in New York before joining Vigilius Mountain Resort.

Jamaica’s Rockhouse.

A different way to do Negril.

By Leslie Long

We were up and outside well before the other Rockhouse guests, many on their honeymoons and sleeping in. Sure, we’re romantic, but my husband is a water fiend and for someone like him, Rockhouse is nirvana.

His first groggy steps onto the porch of our thatched roofed villa revealed a huge, glassy blue expanse of warm, wonderful water, aptly named Pristine Bay. I heard a splash and he was in before the sun had even fully come up. Unlike Seven Mile Beach, the powdery expanse down the road, there’s no beach at Rockhouse. There are stairs and ladders carved into the rocks right outside your room that take you right into the depths of the bay.  And there you stay — swimming, snorkeling or just floating around on a raft or tube. If you’re up for exploring, the jagged coastline around the hotel offers caves, coves and varying vistas depending on how far you swim.

Rockhouse is a boutique hotel made up of a colorful collection of indigenous looking huts peppered along the cliffs and throughout the tropical gardens along the water. They’re furnished in a casual, island-y, casual way — not slick, but very comfortable. It all feels very Jamaican and is so arresting that the sight of the place caused us to screech on the brakes and jump out of the car to investigate further when we were staying down the road at Coco La Palm [links to cocolapalm.com] on Seven Mile Beach. Once we found Rockhouse, we came back the following year to fully experience life on the cliffs.

Staying in one of the many small hotels along Seven Mile Beach is fun, but it’s hardly serene. This area lies east of Rockhouse and it’s known for its crazy beach scene with a kaleidoscope of denizens working the tourists all day and all night. Kindly Jamaican grandmothers sell banana bread and mangos. Hawkers parlay hats, necklaces, sculpture, cigarettes and weed. Buff beach boys do chin ups on tree limbs resulting in better bodies than those who live in gyms. These impressive specimens lay on towels canoodling with vacationing American women of a certain age, both happy to be pampered whether it be with money or sex. Jet skis, banana boats and para-sailing excursions are always at the ready.

Yet just a few miles west of all this hoopla, Rockhouse is a world unto itself, but not in the sequestered manner of all inclusives. It’s right on the road and within walking distance of a few restaurants. But somehow once we were there, we didn’t leave very often. Content to swim, amble over to the infinity pool, snag a chaise on a rock outcropping or walk through the acres of tropical gardens, Rockhouse induces a blissful kind of letharty.

And there are a few things to divert you. The Spa Pavilion has a unique treatment menu with a holistic approach, using local ingredients. I can still conjure up the aroma of the Blue Mountain Coffee Scrub with its blend of vanilla, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange and of course, fragrant Blue Mountain coffee. Morning yoga classes near the pool are a nice way to start the day. There’s a small hotel gift shop with things like Havianas, Bob Marley candles and locally made soaps, plus a sleepy collection of vendors right across the street selling string bracelets, sculptures and T shirts until pretty late at night. And the Rockhouse Restaurant is just so incredibly pretty, it’s hard to muster up the energy to leave. When the sun starts to set and the candles are lit, it’s so easy to slide over there for a drink and just stay for dinner. Blackened Mahi Mahi with mango chutney, Coconut Chicken, Jerk Chicken Roll Up give you an idea.

Wherever we go, we’re usually exploring, even on Caribbean islands. At Rockhouse, just about the only thing we explored was Rockhouse. And that was absolutely fine.

Baltimore

Suddenly, it’s the coolest city north of D.C.

by Leslie Long

New York is great, but these days, most people are priced out of living in Manhattan. Boston is beautiful, but it’s so overly renovated that it’s hard to find any funk. And Philly is nice, but it just doesn’t seem to generate much buzz. But Baltimore, now that’s a city. It’s got a crazy amount of personality with local characters at every turn. There’s an enthusiasm for life here among its residents that reminds me of the way people used to feel about New York

It seems that every article about Baltimore has to mention the HBO show that brought it into the nation’s consciousness when it was at its worst. I want to be perhaps the first article about the city that doesn’t actually mention the show by name, but what it did bring to light was the city’s passion. And yes, there are some grim, sad areas in the city. Let’s hope that soon changes.

As for the bright spots, there are many. It started with the Inner Harbor which is nice for strolling, but it’s largely a group of chain hotels like Hyatt and Homewood Suites (which, although bland, is a spacious, clean and comfortable place to say — with one of the biggest, best gyms I’ve ever seen) and restaurants like Hooter’s and Panera Bread. Aside from the National Aquarium, it’s kind of a mall on the water.

But close by are the city’s hip residential areas that are not only affordable, but quite beautiful.

E. Henrietta Street in Baltimore’s Federal Hill

Let’s start with Federal Hill, an almost idyllic collection of charming streets lined with little brick roughhouses with doors painted with different tasteful colors. From the colors of the doors to the little decorative touches, they are well-loved little houses. The area is home to many young professionals in their twenties and thirties with lots of lively bars, restaurants and boutiques that welcome their business. There’s a Baltimore style indoor food market and M&T Bank Stadium, home of the NFL’s Ravens, is on the water right at the edge of the area. On game days, it seems like the whole neighborhood is out tailgating, even if they don’t actually get to the game. The party then moves to one of the many bars that set up inside and out to watch the game to the stadium sounds just blocks away. Lots of the townhouses have rooftops where everyone also gathers to watch the games on TV. Camden Yards, the Oriole’s stadium is also just blocks away. The hill the neighborhood is named after, Federal Hill itself, looms over the area, offering a nearby spot to walk, run and play.

Entrance of Visionary Museum

Federal Hill has its own unique place to view art, The American Visionary Art Museum. Even from the outside, it’s obvious this is no ordinary museum. A visionary in their eyes is an untrained artist who follows the beat of his or her own drummer. The museum is filled with unique works. Even the gift shop (which is more like a joke shop) is like no museum shop I’ve seen. The museum has a restaurant with a creative décor and menu. From the peacock feathers decorating the tables and the mirrored sparkles hanging from the ceiling, it’s show stopping.

Restaurant at Visionary Museum

Baltimore’s other residential areas, Canton and Fell’s Point also offer waterfront charm. With neighborhood bars, local restaurants, small shops and beautiful older homes and buildings, they all have their own feel. Canton’s Mamas on the Half Shell is often the busiest spot on the street with long lines for tables. Go on a weeknight when they take reservations and enjoy local seafood in a lively atmosphere. Duda’s in Fell’s Point has the feel of a dive bar (it’s been family owned forever) in the very best sense. The burgers, oysters and crab cakes are great — and the staff welcomes you like family. For a traditional spot to stay in Fell’s, check out The Admiral Fell Inn. Its corner location is central and they even offer ghost tours of the historic corners said to welcome spirits.

Baltimore has some of the best food on the east coast. Famous for oysters and crab cakes, superb examples are found just about everywhere. Even run of the mill college bars like the Green Turtle Sports Bar near Towson University just outside of town serve crab cakes that trump any I’ve had elsewhere. And when they’re good, they’re mind blowing. The best in town are at Faidley’s, an old time stand-up seafood joint at Lexington Market, an indoor food mart with everything from unsavory neighborhood denizens to  food stands featured on cable TV food shows. The Faidley’s crab cake is famous in Baltimore and beyond and has been endlessly featured in print and TV. As big as a baseball and piled with lump crabmeat, it’s subtly spiced and is the gold standard.

Woodberry Kitchen at Clipper Mill is spectacular in every way. Built inside an old foundry, it’s part of a complex of apartments and creative businesses like Corradetti Glass. The main event here is the restaurant and it’s truly as good as they come. Casual and beautiful, the restaurant is welcoming and warm. A recent brunch began with an Old Fashioned at the bar garnished with a house-made marinated cherry that was a small touch of perfection. This farm-to-table temple offers locally-sourced comfort food of the highest order. The last time I was there, we ordered the restaurant’s signature C.M.P. Sundae for dessert. Malt ice cream, chocolate sauce, wet peanuts and silky marshmallow fluff burnished on the top like a crème brulee. This dish is so sublime the waiter said people were driving from NY in search of it. When they took it off the menu for awhile, the reaction was so fierce, it now has a permanent spot.

Another fine place to taste and feel the pulse of Baltimore is The Brewer’s Art Housed in an atmospheric former mansion in the beautiful Mount Vernon area, they brew their own beer and serve food that is both familiar and creative. The street side bar packs in the people with an extensive bar menu that is more than enough for dinner. The downstairs bar is alive well into the night and the large dining room in the back is a great place to settle in for dishes like Pumpkin Polenta, Kobe Pot Roast and a superb Steak Frits with Rosemary Garlic Fries.

Hotel Monaco

A Four Seasons hotel is in the works, which is another testament to Baltimore’s rise. Kimpton just opened The Hotel Monaco a few blocks from the water. It’s in a beautiful old building and boasts Kimpton’s signature décor: full of color, creativity and surprise. Our room was comfortable with a big bath, sumptuous beds and a genuinely welcoming staff that aimed to please.