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Limité
November 23, 2009

Guide Into 2010: Travel

Tenerife, Canary Islands

By Daniel Quitério

tenerife

Island paradise. Typical landscape: white sand, blue ocean, palm trees-everything in a Corona ad. Who ever imagines a snow-capped mountain and caves off the coast of Africa? That’s part of what makes Spain’s seven Canary Islands so interesting. Tenerife is the archipelago’s largest island and home of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the islands’ capital and second largest city. Situated off the coast of Morocco, Tenerife preserves its traditional flavors beneath the protection of Mt. Teide, all the while offering its inhabitants and visitors a variety of outdoor pastimes and beautiful weather.

Standing in the center of the island, one could turn in any direction and discover something special. The island’s southern region is composed of several beaches and the majority of hotels and resorts. The picturesque countryside rests in the north, cradling the beautiful architecture of traditional towns like Garachico and the shops of cosmopolitan towns like Puerto de la Cruz. Situated in the northeast are the cities of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and San Cristóbal de La Laguna, which are rich in culture and urban living. (La Laguna is home to the University of La Laguna and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.)

el-caleton

“El Caletón”

All corners of the island provide ample “play spaces” for the avid outdoorsman. Birdwatching, sailing, diving, and golfing are all popular pastimes, but Tenerife’s individuality is more so revealed by much of its terrain, which was shaped by volcanic activity. This landscape is perfectly suited for canyoning, climbing, and hiking. Of course, island culture wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the beach, and Tenerife offers both golden and volcanic sand beaches to be enjoyed during the year-round spring-like weather. (The average annual temperature is 73°F.) For those whose appetite for swimming is not quenched by the Atlantic Ocean, visit Garachico and one of its several natural swimming pools in an area called “El Caletón.” The pools were formed in 1706 following the eruption of the Trevejo Volcano when molten lava converged with the ocean.

mt-teide

Mt. Teide

The most important volcanic peak in Tenerife is Mt. Teide, which is Spain’s tallest mountain at 3,717 meters high. Conservation is of the utmost importance in the Canary Islands, as the region’s ecosystems infuse themselves in the character of the islands. For this reason, Mt. Teide National Park is one of Tenerife’s most treasured resources and a popular tourist attraction. Despite the pleasant weather on the islands, Teide is not immune to harsh snowfall in the winter. The snow only lives in Teide’s higher elevations, though, so those sunbathing on the beaches below have a spectacular view of white mountain peaks above.

Reclining back, bare feet forward. White sands. Blue ocean. In Tenerife, paradise isn’t complete without a snow-capped mountain in view. Corona, take note.

Dominica

The Caribbean’s Nature Island - where you’re urged to defy the everyday.
by Leslie Long

dominica-laplaine-coastline

Lapline Coastline

Yes, we love beaches. And there’s nothing like the warm turquoise waters and soft white sand of a blissful Caribbean beach. But if we like beaches, we’ve certainly done beaches. Probably many times. If you’re looking for something more exotic, but still warm and wonderful, think about Dominica. Known as The Nature Island, it lies between The French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. What’s so nature-y? It has 365 rivers plus waterfalls, boiling lakes, pristine coral reefs and rainforests said to be among the last true oceanic rainforests in the world. Dominica is also at the forefront of eco-tourism so you can choose from nature tours, hikes, whale and dolphin watches and incredible bird watching. And although the beaches are mostly rocky, the diving and snorkeling are great.

dominica-fort-shirley

Fort Shirley

What’s to eat before or after immersing yourself in all this natural beauty? Ritual’s Coffee House has a surprisingly trendy atmosphere, considering its remoteness. Start the day here or stop in later for a slice of their beloved Amaretto Cheesecake. La Maison in the center of the main town Roseau - and serves surprisingly sophisticated fare. Mirage is the place for food as interesting as the island itself: a mix of North African, Mediterranean, Indian and South American.

Where to stay? The small hotels hugging the green hillsides are a welcome change from the typical sprawling island spots. Beau Rive Dominica is built into a hillside and has just ten rooms. All are beautiful and have ocean views. Best of all, prices start at $137 a night, breakfast included.  With a roof bar, swimming pool, forest trail and gardens of citrus and spice, it’s dreamy and different - just like Dominica.

dominica-diver-orange-spongesjpeg

Although beaches here are few and far between, there are a couple and Calibishie Cove Hotel overlooks one. The hotel’s four rooms are private, pretty and feature free Internet access and complimentary use of a local cell. Local foods are on the menu, including tropical fruits and island beers. Even the soaps are made locally.

dominica-freshwater-lake-2jpeg

Freshwater Lake

Here’s a great way to get in the mood to visit this decidedly different island. Take a look at the work of local artist Marie Frederick. With a range of prices, there’s something for all budgets. But the bright colors and island scenes make the island feel closer than ever. If you go to Dominica, be sure to stop at her studio. For the most island-y place to stay, check out Marie’s Tree Cottage. This outdoor guest room with Frederick’s colorful paintings, romantic mosquito nets and a view of emerald hillsides could not be more authentic.

For more information, go to discoverdominica.com

Palm Springs

Desert wonderland where everything old is new again.
by Leslie Long

palm-springs-golf

Palm Springs, that eye-popping desert oasis two hours east of LA, was a celebrity hangout in the ’30s and ’40s, a golf destination in the ’60s and ’70s - and then it became a little rough around the edges, with most of the development happening outside of town. Downtown Palm Springs languished for awhile until another oasis was discovered there: thousands of pristine mid-century modern buildings - from homes both modest and grand to churches, city halls, office buildings and libraries. Cool stores and restaurants followed, along with cool people. A vibrant gay scene took hold and today Palm Springs is one of the more harmonious towns around as witnessed by my recent ringside seat at the Gay Pride Parade that included the Palm Springs High School Marching Band. Now, that’s a tolerant town!

Aside from blue skies, spectacular weather and lots to see and do, Palm Springs has the best collection of small and unique hotels anywhere. These hideaways were built during the town’s first heyday and many of them are now spiffed up in mid-century style with the comforts we all want today.

orbit-in

Orbit In

The Orbit In tops the list for retro charm done right. All the rooms ring the pool and they’re furnished with all kinds of great stuff - from Melmac dishes in the kitchenettes to old fashioned radios and vintage books to page through while lounging on your big, comfy bed. When you’re in the pool, look up and you’ll see the famous mountainside home of Albert Frey, a Swiss architect responsible for many of the town’s best buildings. Want to know more? Sign up for a mini-bus tour with Robert Imber (760 318-6118) and you’ll see the sights while learning about the town’s best modernist buildings in a couple of fascinating hours. Imber is charming, gracious and super knowledgeable. And his jackets aren’t bad either. Just call ahead because he’s as popular (and booked) as he deserves to be.

palm-springs-prettygirl

Other small hotels to check out are the Chase for affordable, modernist style and a friendly feel - where guests leave their doors open and welcome you like an old friend. The Colony Palms is the spot for Spanish style old Hollywood glamour and a sexy restaurant called The Purple Palm where you dine poolside under the towering palms.

ace-hotel-poolside

Poolside at the Ace Hotel

If small and cozy isn’t your thing, there’s a great big, young, fun scene going on right now at the brand new Ace Hotel & Swim Club. Formerly a Howard Johnsons and a Denny’s, this place has the feel of the Standard in Miami (same owners), but here it’s done in desert high style. Curl up under the stars at one the many outdoor fireplaces flanked by cushy couches. Spend the afternoon at the deep, swirly, sprawling pool - and settle into your room that may have its very own outdoor fireplace and feels much like an elegant encampment. When you get hungry, the Ace’s bars and restaurants are ready to serve. The Ace is busy, big (for Palm Springs, that is - it’s got 180 rooms) and bursting with energy.

palm-springs-pinnichio

Outside of Pinocchios

A town with this much going on has lots of good food. Wake up and head straight for Pinocchios where the endless champagne bucket can keep you in Mimosas for hours as the breakfast keeps on coming. And Cheeky’s is a must for breakfast and lunch. They serve innovative salads, sandwiches, breakfasts and desserts at prices that surprise. For such fine ingredients and creativity, it’s very reasonable.

trio-restaurant-palm-springs

Trio Staff

The newest restaurant to grab hold is Trio.

The trio is food, art and sound - and all three are well represented in this place where comfort food resides happily with an orange and white décor Austin Powers would love. On a recent Monday, there was barely a table available in this large, lively spot.

And don’t leave town before you outfit yourself in Palm Springs style at Trina Turk. Housed in an Albert Frey building decorated by Kelly Wearstler, it’s worth visiting, even if you just want to check out the ’60s decor and the big, beautiful dressing rooms. Whether you like black sophistication or bright tropical colors, Trina has something for every man and women who loves to look good.

For more information about Palm Springs, go to visitpalmsprings.com.

Ann Arbor

A college town that’s graduated.
By Leslie Long

ann-arbor

What’s the usual refrain about Ann Arbor, famed home of University of Michigan? Hey, what a great college town. That it is, but it’s also a whole lot more. And even if you’re not enrolled (or visiting someone who is), Ann Arbor has evolved into a really great place to hang. In college-town style, it’s laid back and friendly. But it’s also got a hip sophistication when it comes to music, food and the arts - due in part to college grads who liked the place, stayed and started businesses, followed by others who’ve showed up to be part of it all.

dining-ann-arborDining in Ann Arbor; photo credit: Ann Arbor Area CVB

With farm-to-table food, brew pubs that take suds seriously, music clubs that rise high above the typical college fare, funky stores and its own techno music label, Ann Arbor is definitely worth a visit.

Here, beer tasting is elevated to an art form. Try it out at Arbor Brew Pub , Original Gravity or Jolly Pumpkin. Don’t miss, Zingerman’s a deli that’s more like an institution.  And if you prefer wine to beer,  Vinology is for you.

The music label is Ghostly International and their artists fit into two categories: avant-pop which they describe as cutting edge with an electronic methodology and a pop sensibility - and SMM, enigmatic ambient and experimental music with an emphasis on textural ad melodic expanses. For understated style, check out their Classic Ghostly Tee.

ann-arbor-welcome-signMichigan, Ann Arbor - Welcome Sign

For live music, The Ark features performers from luminaries to local and everywhere in between. Every night, there’s someone different on stage, so plan your trip when you like who’s on the bill.

One of the hippest places in town isn’t even in town. It’s Puffer Reds in nearby Ypsilanti  Famous across the country for their shoe selection and everything else hip hop, they bill themselves as Street-Level Taste Masters of Urban Style.

Helsinki

On the waterfront and on the forefront.
By Leslie Long

A brand new high-speed train debuts this summer that can whisk you from Helsinki to St. Petersburg in around three hours. That’s great news for those who want a little Russia with their Finland. But Helsinki has so much to offer, you may just want to stay in town. This coastal city of bays, inlets and harbors has a busy waterfront with huge ferries plying the waters throughout the day. And in the Design District alone, right in the city center, you’ll have 25 streets of small cafes, galleries, restaurants, museums, design studios and shops to explore.

klaus-k-hotel-helsinkiHotel KlausK

First, you have to check in somewhere and if art and design are your passion, there’s one hotel for you: Hotel KlausK. There’s a Finnish national epic called Kalevala and this story inspired the hotel’s inspiring décor. Room categories are named for emotions in the myth: Passion, Desire and Envy.  The modern décor is sleek and white and the rotating art exhibits keep the place bustling and fresh. Recent exhibits have included Hugo Bes’ arresting black and white photography of a reindeer farm in winter in Lapland called “Lapland: The Last Nomads of Europe.” This summer, the art of Tiina-Elina Nurminen will be featured.

juuri_meals

Meals at Jurri

Stop at Juuri for the small Finnish appetizers called sapas. If you’re daring, try the smoked reindeer heart with rowanberry wine gelee. If not, there’s the superb lingonberry marinated salmon on maltbread. Main courses can include boar ribs and local char. It’s unique and the place is design-y and cool. Another great spot is Carma. Right in the center of town, it’s furnished with modernist flair. Just 24 seats and creative use of local ingredients, especially during Finland’s summer months, make this just the place for that special dinner while in town. For cocktails with Finnish flair, there’s A21 where the design oriented clientele try cocktails with exotic ingredients like birch, rhubarb and sea blackthorn.

a21-cocktail-lounge
Appetizers from A21 Cocktail Lounge

Finns have a talent for design, so be sure to visit the Design Museum Finland and Design Forum Finland. And while you probably know Marimekko for their bold bed linens and classic striped shirts, check them out for innovative design for men, women and kids. The Pamela jacket from the recent collection is awesome with its black background and pink and yellow swirls. A highly developed design aesthetic is an everyday part of Finnish life, as evidenced by the many Marimekko stores throughout the country, even in small towns. When in Helsinki, stop by the flagship boutique at Kamp Galleria. If Marimekko is the classic, IVANA Helsinki represents the new. The orange mini dress with big white polka dots is fab, as is IVANA’s site. For a wearable souvenir that will stand out back home, be sure to visit the boutique.

For more information about Helsinki, go to visithelsinki.fi

Ghent, Belgium

Small city. (Big secret.)

by Leslie Long

evening_in_ghent_belgiumPhoto by Merc Haven

Ever heard of Ghent? (Sometimes spelled Gent.) Insiders say it’s Belgium’s secret  city- and its most beautiful.

During medieval times, everyone knew about it. Ghent was Europe’s second biggest city. Today, it’s a university town with an artistic side that translates into a lot of museums and galleries for a city this size. And the architecture is simply spectacular. Walk along the old Graslei harbor, visit the Gravensteen castle and take in the sun in the central squares where students sit and stroll. Famous for its food and a unique local mustard, there are so many inviting restaurants.

With so much imposing architecture, the Design Museum Gent is a must. While the building exterior has an old world charm, the inside looks as contemporary as the exhibitions. For Flemish masters, there’s the Museum voor Schone Kunst.

To demonstrate the range of museums in town, you might want to check out one of the strangest ones: the Dr. Guislain Museum. Located amid a psychiatric hospital that’s still in use, it just may be the only museum of psychiatric and psychological history. In the early 1800’s Dr. Guislain was an advocate of patients’ rights - a man who was surely ahead of his time.

hotel-harmonyHotel Harmony

The Hotel Harmony is aptly named and I loved the quiet elegance of the décor. Every part of the hotel - from the lobby and restaurant to the spacious rooms speaks of good taste, comfort and fine design. The fact that it’s located in a historic building on a pretty canal in Ghent’s oldest neighborhood only added to the pleasure.

Ever wish you could live in a gallery? Stay at the gracious Onderland and you can - for a few nights anyway. The owner is an art restorer and the guest rooms were once an art gallery. The ornate carriage house suite is decorated with period antiques. At rates starting at under $100, it’s a spectacular stay for the price.

In Madrid

By Jake Marmulstein

santiago-bernabeu-stadium

Santiago Bernabéu Stadium

In Madrid, Santiago Bernabéu Stadium is slated to host the 2010 Union of Football Associations (UEFA) Champion Leagues Final. The Madrilenos support their team Real Madrid with the utmost loyalty. The city has other things on its agenda though. With landmarks ranging from the Royal Palace of Madrid to the city’s National Library, and such revered museums as the National Archaeological Museum of Spain and Prado Museum, Madrid truly brims with history and culture. The city has gained prominence as a major hub for international commerce, making it an ideal place for the business-minded.

parque-del-buen-retiro

Parque del Buen Retiro

Nightclubs, theaters, parks and galleries abound, offering something to fit pleasure seekers’ unique tastes as well. Las Ventas is the traditional bullfighting ring which hosts the fiesta de San Isidro when the best bullfighters compete tournament style and fans pack the stands rooting for the favorite matador. Madrid’s Parque del Buen Retiro features magnificent topiary and landscaping art stretched for blocks. The city is constantly undergoing renovation and has been churning out new metro stations and new pedestrian roads. World renowned art is always on exhibition and it’s possible to catch a free Opera or Zarzuela show outside the Royal Palace. Each zone has its own identity. From Chueca, Puerta del Sol, Lavapies, to La Latina, Madrid’s richly diverse culture flourishes and always has something new to offer. The zero kilometer mark to Spain starts here: destination Madrid.

San Sebastian

By Jake Marmulstein

sala-2-museo

Museum Chillida-Leku Gallery

It’s no wonder San Sebastian used to be royalty’s vacation destination, now it is the hottest resort destination with the highest property levels in all of Spain. Belle Eqpoque architecture, high-end Michelin starred cuisine, luxurious beaches and beautiful mountains are only a few features that give the city its special charm. San Sebastian encompasses the famous La Concha beach popular to tourists and Playa de Ondarreta to the west and Playa de la Zurriola to the east popular for surfers. From atop Mount Urgull, the statue of Jesus overseas the city from amidst fresh and crisp mountain air. Local footballers play in the green openness of Plaza de La Constitución and churches like the florid Baroque basilica of Santa Maria del Coro or the austere Gothic-era San Vicente exude rich cultural history. The Museo Chillida’s abstract art pieces of iron, stone and wood and Museo del San Telco’s unveiling from recent renovations make San Sebastian also the place to be for exquisite and unique art.

bacalao-salvia

Cogote de bacalao con salvia - Restaurante Martin Berasategui

The cuisine is innovative, posh, and refined. Pintxos are a cornerstone of Basque culture and society. Fresh ingredients with innovative variations served on top a slice of bread serve as the province’s social and gastronomic token usually eaten in bars or taverns while hanging out with friends or relatives. And in San Sebastian, local bars have the Best Pintxos competition to come up with new variations while locals sample from bar to bar the spoiling choices of gourmet cuisine. Restaurants like Arzak, Akelare, and Restaurante Martin Berasategui are common names made famous in Spain by the best chefs in the world.

San Sebastian is a majestic vacation destination for the picturesque landscapes, elegant fusion of French, Basque, and Spanish culture, to the world most indulging cuisines and artistic masterpieces. For your next vacation, all you need to think about is getting there.

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[...] learn more about visiting Palm Springs, see the Limité Guide Into 2010: Travel Palm Springs. posted by: Leslie Long to a friend labels: Art & Design, [...]

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