Amongst Friends Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
Amongst Friends presents its 2010 spring collection lookbook. The brand has grown season-to-season with a strong presentation of its 2010 spring collection courtesy of 13thWitness. The collection includes some well-tailored jackets together with other noteworthy pieces in the form of a few different henley shirts. Staff favorites include: the Ardsley “LS” Button Down, the “Educate” Henley Sweatshirt, and the “Bellport” Hooded Deck Jacket.
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Calvin Klein White Label Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
Calvin Klein’s White Label presents its Spring 2010 collection. Amongst a mostly muted lineup, the collection is another refreshing look into the Spring season with classic, simple looks and splashes of seasonal colors.
“It’s crisp, fresh and simple — it all started with denim and is going back to American sportswear,” said creative director Kevin Carrigan. “Back to Calvin,” with simplicity and utility. While much of the sportswear incorporated a vivid color palette, chambray and indigo denim, the jeanswear comprised a pale acid wash, a bleached look and white. Even in the accessories collection, which includes canvas sneakers and boat shoes, the emphasis was on refined casualwear.
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Chandon Lucién
By Tyler Durden
Chandon Lucién is a premium men’s accessories line that caters to the man that isn’t afraid to define himself by what he wears. He’s the man that lets his appearance speak volumes. Chandon Lucién’s objective is to manufacture quality, high-end accessories and garments that compliment the wearer’s individuality and sense of style.
Chandon Lucién is the embodiment of classic American and European cutting-edge style. The company’s goal is to meet the standard of every tastemaker within the fashion industry. Chandon Lucién prides itself on its ability to accommodate men who do not want to feel limited while shopping.
Debuting next fall, Chandon Lucién will release brass metal charm bracelets, weekend bags (in exotic materials such as ostrich feathers, herringbone and tweed), scarves, and driver gloves.
DENHAM
By D.Z. Scott
English-born denim extraordinaire Jason Denham, CEO and head designer of DENHAM: The Jean Maker, has capitalized on the denim enterprise and successfully mastered the art and craft of denim de- and re-construction. DENHAM, a Netherland- based denim company is arguably one of the best denim manufacturers in the world. With a traditional yet personalized flare, Jason Denham creates timeless fashion, with simplistic yet precise detailing that makes each and every one of his denim offspring stand out in a sea of other denim designers.
Denham’s resume is quite impressive as he discovered his passion for denim as the protégé of Joe Casely-Hayford, designing rock star jeans for U2. He later moved on to be the Product Manager of the Italian brand Pepe Jeans. In the spring of 2009 Jason Denham launched his own premium collection based on his aesthetic take on the ancient fabric. Prior to launching the line, Jason Denham was a collector of all things denim: he intensively studied the popular ancient traditional Japanese methods of weaving and dying with renowned denim guru “Hiro.” According to the DENHAM team, “The Japanese have the best understanding of true authentic denim. In the late 1960s, the big American weaving mills switched the production of denim to 58″ weaving looms instead of the traditional 29″ Selvedge looms. The reasons for this were fewer imperfections and less waste material. As such, the Japanese quickly bought all the American looms and started weaving true authentic denim in Japan.” continue reading
Diesel Spring/Summer 2010 Preview
By Alex B.
There’s one thing about Italian fashion house Diesel that always rings true: they know how to bring the party - anywhere. This is evident even in the preview to their Spring/Summer 2010 collection, which embodies the essence of rock star chic. Here, a sleek combination of black, white, beige and silver-infused patterns blend with funky tees, jackets, sweaters and dresses to bring new meaning to the term “I wanna ROCK!” More importantly, the collection emphasizes sexy comfort by combining long, loose-fitting jackets and hoodies with black jeans and gray trousers for the guys and knee-length cotton dresses, cute cut-off tees and slim black pants for the ladies. It’s an interesting departure from Diesel’s past spring collections, which have often been saturated in more wild, vibrant colors. With its Spring/Summer 2010 collection, Diesel proves that the rock star in us need not overindulge - it’s simple, comfy, understated rock star elegance all the way.
Check out some of the looks and a fun little dance number to music by the Vanities here.
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Hellz Spring 2010 “Obsessed With You” Collection
By Tyler Durden
Founded by Lanie Alabanza in 2005 in NYC and now based in LA, Hellz has maintained its presence as a key women’s brand and voice for rebellious youth. Lanie’s approach to design comes from the fine balance of constraint and restraint. “Marrying the worlds of hi and lo,” the collection ranges from punk chic to sophisticated couture. The Spring 2010 Collection creates a vibrant, yet cool, calm color palette mixed with a sense of empowerment and mischievousness. One of our favorite pieces in this collection includes the ‘New York, New York’ top.
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HEYDAY Spring 2010 Collection
By Michael McKenzie
Founded by veteran footwear designer Darin Hager, Heyday is an up and coming luxury sneaker brand that is taking the men’s contemporary market by storm. Designer Darin Hager started his career in 1995, and his resume includes several iconic brands such as Puma and Sperry Top-Sider, Clarks, and Reebok. Like most shoe designers, Hager found there was a void in retail when it came to uniquely-designed shoes, which fueled him to develop his own line. With his one-of-a-kind design process, Shoe Math, Hager combines several different concepts or trends to create something completely new. The new Heydey line is highlighted by the Super Shift, which boasts an audacious color palette and unparalleled original designs. To round out true luxury sneaker feel, the line also includes premium leathers, suede and ballistic mesh, leather linings, and full-length memory foam footbeds. Take a look at the Holiday 2009 collection after the jump.
View more of Heyday 2010 Collection here.
Huffer Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
New Zealand brand Huffer presents its Spring 2010 collection, which takes creative cues from its homeland’s oceanic surroundings. The range is undoubtedly influenced by the crystal-clear Pacific and the relaxed, breezy New Zealand atmosphere, evident in fabric choices that range from old fashioned to 100 percent cotton, chambray and heavy knits, wool blends, and poly-fil linings (for warmth!).
With the recent addition of NZ women’s designer Kristine Crabb, the Huffer brand plans for a heavy presence in American fashion culture. She describes, “I wanted to make some really beautiful, strong pieces that were simple and practical in keeping with our modern aesthetic. We’ve drawn inspiration from the cutting techniques of the 1920s and 1980s which mixes well with the natural easiness that defines Huffer’s womenswear collection.”
With additional material choices that include raw denim, spun cotton, velour, light seersucker plaids, airy fleece and ripstop nylon, you’ll definitely be lookin’ good and keepin’ cozy in Huffer’s latest threads. Be on the lookout for collaborations with Audi, Porsche and New Zealand Air. Huffer is available at Oak NYC, Black Market Los Angeles, Untitled Chicago and www.80spurple.com.
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Isabel Toledo
By Alex B.
She’s been called an “incredible talent” by Marc Jacobs and deemed “one of America’s greatest resources” by Todd Oldham. She showed her first solo collection over 20 years ago and has since become known for her uniquely structural, meticulously executed designs. Her powerful talent was recognized immediately following her debut in the fashion world, her clothing featured in the likes of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Her name is Isabel Toledo, and she is one of the most talented visionaries around.
Cuban-born Toledo studied painting, ceramics and fashion design at New York’s FIT and Parson’s School of Design before showing her first solo collection in 1985. Though strongly connected to her culture, Toledo’s American upbringing fueled her appreciation for the craft behind the beauty, hence her self-description as a “seamstress” with a love for the technique of sewing. Interestingly, she sees herself, the female designer, as being at an advantage because she believes women can “experience” clothing while men tend to be “decorators of clothing.” continue reading
Isaora Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
Founded in early 2008 in New York City by two avid snowboarder friends, ISAORA proves that technical performance and high style need not be mutually exclusive. Having spent the better part of their youths entrenched in the street and snowboard culture — but like many first generation snowboarders, having long since outgrown anti-establishment views and the notion that “baggier is better” or “brighter is bolder” — they imagined a brand that offered a more versatile, fashion-forward option for both men and women. continue reading
Jean Paul Gaultier Levi´s Icons SS 2010
By Tyler Durden
Every denim line has looked to Levi’s for inspiration. So when Levi’s collaborated with the iconic designer Jean Paul Gaultier to create a selection of garments for his Spring/Summer 2010 men’s collection. Gaultier confessed that he’s addicted to the American brand, which he feels represents the American dream and the “world’s jeans par excellence,” so he decided to reinterpret some of their iconic styles.
Four Levi’s 501 looks were reinterpreted by Gaultier, with looks ranging from the classic jacket to jeans with sailor stripes to ties. Gaultier innovatively crossed pieces of denim with soft, elegant garments to show us his take on this timeless, renowned denim brand. It’s without a doubt a match made in pattern paradise!
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Kid Dangerous Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
Fairly new to the industry, but already commanding a domineering presence is LA-based Kid Dangerous. The expectation is met in the brand’s name alone - brash and irreverent, it maintains its unique middle ground for consumers who appreciate the world of high-end fashion but still prefer to remain on the periphery of “mainstream.”
The minds behind Kid Dangerous have vowed to put the garment first, providing high quality products with stark, in-your-face graphics that connect to people on a deeper level than the typical knee-jerk response to a company logo. While others have tried to use their name to sell the design, Kid Dangerous is committed to use the design to sell “their name.” Some of the staff’s faves include the “LA/NY Don’t Love U” tees, “Tape Pop” (inspired by Notorious BIG’s song “Juicy” with lyrics “I let my tape rock ’til my tape pop”) and the “Pulp Noir” Series” (a hardboiled series of graphics celebrating the seedy underbelly of decades past inspired by the sensational pulp magazines and crime tabloids of the 40s and 50s). It’s a vibrant dime store exploration of the sexual and violent macabre. Available at Nordstrom, Kitson Men/Women, Sak’s Fifth Avenue (Mexico) and Free’s Shop (Japan).
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Life/after/denim Holiday 2009 Lookbook
By Tyler Durden
Life/After/Denim is a men’s apparel label out of Los Angeles, CA that might actually help those living in colder climates who are and looking to warm up in hot new looks for fall and winter. The company’s look book boasts subtle plaid peacoats, leather jackets, military jackets and a wide assortment of blazers and sweaters that are perfect for layering. When it comes to the under-layer, for example, button ups come in a handful of interesting patterns, with an assortment of zip-up hoodies to match. Trousers in plaids and bold solid colors round out an all-together comfortably chic ensemble.
To help us out in these tough economic times, Life/After/Denim is simultaneously launching a lower-priced line that bears the same name but is represented by a black tag in contrast to the flagship’s cream one. The styling for the offshoot reflects inspiration culled from the 60s and 70s, with less expensive fabrics and a brighter palette. Long-sleeved woven shirts in the diffusion line will retail for $58 - almost a third less than its counterparts in the main lineup.
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Noir Basic Spring/Summer 2010 Lookbook
By Tyler Durden
French brand Noir Basic has offered us a preview of its 2010 Spring/Summer collection! The latest collection, which is manufactured entirely in France using premium materials, is all about outerwear and includes various jacket styles (models range from varsity styles to a denim blazer) and two cotton hoodies. Each design is sophisticated in both cut and color scheme, adhering to a classic muted palette. Upon release, each garment will appear in very limited numbers to support the brand’s “high quality, low quantity” philosophy.
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Patrik Everell Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
The latest from respected American contemporary menswear designer Patrik Ervell has landed at select retailers. With strong attention to detail and fit, the collection represents a rather conservative approach in the form of some basic staples. Unfortunately, no real outerwear – which is generally considered Ervell’s strong suit from season to season– is included in the line. The collection is available now at Opening Ceremony.
Patrik Ervell is the New York menswear equivalent to a cult indie band. Everything—the styling, the soundtrack, the attitude, and, of course, the clothes themselves—conspires to create the impression of a focused, intense, maybe even tortured artist. Like any cult indie band, Ervell can release a dud product. But when he flies, he soars. Spring saw a major return to the form that won him his fashion indie-boy fan base. The reference points he quoted were iron and copper oxides, fabrics washed to fade—and the state of California. That’s where Ervell grew up, but the smart shabbiness of the clothes also made me think of the post-boho artists who created a scene around the Ferus Gallery in L.A. in the early 60s. And, continuing on the art tip, the colors and patterns imprinted on the fabrics by oxidizing metals echoed work by Andy Warhol and Robert Smithson.
But that’s just me.
The idea Ervell wanted to convey was another facet of the Americanness he has always explored in his work—rusting buildings, railways, traces left by pioneers who’ve come before. It was a spectacularly visual effect. From a distance, oxidized jackets looked almost like crushed velvet. One showpiece had the metal woven into the cloth, which created a shimmering patina of age. Washing had a similar effect on chambray shirts and jackets, making them seem like they’d been faded in the California desert, where the Clarks Wallabees worn by the models would be appropriate footwear. Ervell studded a couple pairs with rusty staples, so they too had an oxidized look. Backstage, he insisted that the shoes had been equipped with a protective lining—even for an indie artist, model lockjaw might’ve been a step too far.
- Tim Blanks of Men.Style
The beauty and danger of the elements rose as an intriguing element central to the Spring 2010 show by Patrick Ervell. Optimistic pieces, pastel in color and proper in form, were paired with edgy, almost eerie items. Oxidized overcoats, rust-ruined trousers and light-ravaged denims all seemingly left for a decade in the deserts of the west all exude a seared, sun and rain-ravaged roughness that Ervell challenges the eye to accept as not ruined but rather refined.
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Public School Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
New York’s Public School has maintained a consistently dark palette to its works, which has forged ahead thanks also to a penchant for meticulous detailing. Often a central theme, this includes the pairing of multiple materials to achieve a certain degree of subtle contrast.
Our muse each season is an imaginary character by the name of Eddie Red. He’s a young NYC hustler from the mid ’70s. We begin every season with his imaginary guidance and fashion insight. This S/S 10 season takes inspiration from Ralph Ellison’s Invisible Man. We witness Red’s journey through a hostile city, meandering through his many obstacles and surviving through his anonymity. Its probably our most progressive season in terms of experimentation of fabrics. For spring we wanted something tough but still flowing and drape-y. Mercerized jerseys, 16gg sweater knits are accompanied by washed leathers and bleached denim. The silhouette remains strong and the neck line built high with an exaggerated slim bottom.
- Public School
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Rochambeau Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
Rochambeau’s 2010 spring collection is a further extension of the fledgling New York-based brand’s approach to contemporary menswear. While Rochambeau’s innovative jersey pieces have become one of the brand’s most popular fixtures, other more subtle designs include crisp trench coats, Harrington-esque jackets and simple, tailored shorts.
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Thom Browne Spring 2010 Collection
By Tyler Durden
Among the heavyweights in the realm of American menswear is Thom Browne, whose Spring 2010 RTW collection, presented barebones style at his flagship store in Tribeca, NYC, was subject to strong objections apparently because of the “effeminate nature” of his designs. While some of the pieces were perhaps “on the feminine side” (mostly in the bottoms department) there were certainly other that screamed “MAN!” particularly when it came to outerwear.
Perhaps it’s a credit to Browne that after the past several years of killing taboos — first with the exposed ankles and the shrunken suits, then the more extreme proportions, the femininity, the straitlaced perversity and the fascist conformity — these tropes failed to shock or amuse this time around.
To be influential in menswear is to innovate and surprise while still meeting the formal requirements of the medium of the body, of a life. Browne knows it because he exerted that kind of power in the past with his iconic cropped suit. It’s an elusive accomplishment, let alone when repeated. But to make unwearable art that takes no account of the wearer’s dignity is only dodging the challenge.
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Viktor & Rolf Spring/Summer 2010 “Monsieur” Preview
By Tyler Durden
Viktor & Rolf delivers several looks from its upcoming “Monsieur” Collection for next Spring/Summer. This collection remains true to the Viktor & Rolf look that we’ve come to know and love, with a focus on clean, masculine cuts that keeps with a simple color palette.
“While winter is delivering its best, V&R’s Monsieur gets ready for the coming spring-summer festivities, counting on a sunny and hot season across the north hemisphere . . . and perhaps all over the globe. No matter the occasion, this gentleman is an expert in preparing smart and elegant looks for afternoons in the English dry countryside, his latest and favorite holidays destination. Expect him to show up impeccable, able to treat both the formal and the informal while adding some spooky tricks, sometimes teasing his guests with a subtle controlled detail disorder (a shirt carrying a small version of a pocket, usually found in the inside of a tailored jacket…). ‘Let’s tease together, but silently,’ he whispers.
The smoking-tuxedo blazer has been kindly asked to accept a pleated tailored pant to join brunch time, and they seem to do great together. And if you feel like having additional fun . . . think: ‘Inside-out’. Brunch is served while traditional underwear details become visible in beautiful tailored pants as elastic waistbands: suddenly, summer has officially arrived . . .”
- Sr. Marcelo Horacio Maquieira
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